The Ultimate Working Breed Puppy Guide: How to Train High-Energy Dogs
The complete blueprint for turning your German Shepherd, Malinois, or high-drive puppy from a chaotic “land shark” into a calm, focused companion.
If standard puppy advice has left you frustrated, bruised, sleep-deprived, and wondering why your puppy seems to have completely ignored the memo about being your “best friend,” you are not alone.
Working-breed puppies play by a different set of rules.
The biting, barking, pulling, jumping, pacing, stealing, guarding, and explosive bursts of energy are rarely solved by simply adding another walk or repeating “no” more forcefully.
These dogs were selectively bred to notice movement, react quickly, solve problems, stay engaged, control their environment, and work alongside humans.
The solution is not to fight those instincts.
It is to teach your puppy how to use them.
This guide will show you how.
Jump to Your Biggest Puppy Problem
Use this guide from beginning to end to build a complete training foundation, or jump directly to the behavior giving you the most trouble right now.
Table of Contents
Why Working Breeds Are Different
German Shepherds, Belgian Malinois, Dutch Shepherds, Border Collies, Australian Shepherds, cattle dogs, livestock guardian mixes, and many other high-drive puppies were not developed to spend their entire lives passively occupying a living room.
Their genetics reward awareness, movement, persistence, decision-making, environmental sensitivity, and engagement with a handler.
That often means they process environmental changes extremely quickly, become frustrated when prevented from reaching something they want, and struggle when they have plenty of physical energy but no productive outlet for their brain.
The goal of working-breed puppy training is therefore not simply to create a tired dog.
It is to develop a dog that can think while excited, settle when nothing is happening, disengage from distractions, recover from frustration, and look to you for direction.
Decoding the Working Breed Mind
Before fixing barking, biting, jumping, pulling, or any other puppy behavior, it helps to understand the machinery underneath it.
A working-breed puppy does not wake up every morning plotting new ways to destroy your house.
Their behavior is usually the result of some combination of:
Genetics
Arousal
Frustration
Curiosity
Reinforcement history
Lack of impulse control
Insufficient sleep
Environmental overstimulation
Unmet mental needs
Immature emotional regulation
Puppies are still developing neurologically.
Give an immature brain the speed, athleticism, confidence, sensitivity, and persistence of a working dog and you can end up with what feels like a furry tornado.
Understanding that changes the question.
Instead of asking:
“How do I make this behavior stop?”
Start asking:
“What skill does my puppy need in order to make a better choice?”
That distinction is at the heart of effective working-breed training.
Understanding Drive
The word "drive" gets thrown around constantly in working-dog circles.
It does not simply mean that your dog has “a lot of energy.”
Drive describes powerful motivational systems that influence what your dog notices and what they are willing to work for.
Prey Drive
Prey-related behavior is heavily influenced by movement.
You may see it when your puppy:
Chases feet
Attacks pant legs
Pursues running children
Stalks squirrels
Grabs moving leashes
Chases balls obsessively
Nips ankles
Becomes intensely interested in bicycles or joggers
This instinct can make puppy biting incredibly frustrating.
But properly directed prey motivation can later become an excellent training tool through tug, toy rewards, structured play, tracking, search games, or appropriate sport work.
Defense Drive
Defensive behavior is related to perceived threats, environmental uncertainty, and self-protection.
It can contribute to:
Alert barking
Suspicion of strangers
Territorial behavior
Defensive posturing
Reactivity
Guarding behavior
Young puppies should not be pushed into defensive situations to “toughen them up.”
Your job is to build confidence and teach the puppy that you will handle situations they do not understand.
Social or Pack Drive
Working breeds are frequently intensely interested in their people.
That connection is one reason these dogs can become extraordinary partners.
But it can also contribute to:
Following you everywhere
Distress when separated
Demanding attention
Difficulty settling independently
Frustration behind barriers
Crate protests
The goal is not to eliminate attachment.
It is to create secure attachment combined with independence.
That means your dog learns:
“I want to work with you, but I can also relax when you are unavailable.”
The Myth of Physical Exhaustion
One of the most common pieces of advice given to frustrated working-breed owners is:
“You just need to tire him out.”
So the owner walks farther.
Then they start jogging.
Then fetch gets added.
Then another walk.
Then the puppy starts daycare.
And somehow the dog becomes even harder to live with.
There is a reason.
Exercise Does Not Automatically Create Calmness
Exercise is important.
But exercise is not the same thing as emotional regulation.
If your primary strategy is continually increasing physical activity, your puppy can become physically fitter without becoming mentally calmer.
You may accidentally create an extremely athletic dog who still:
Cannot settle
Cannot tolerate frustration
Cannot ignore distractions
Cannot disengage
Cannot relax inside the house
In other words, you build a better athlete without teaching an off switch.
Mental Decompression Changes the Equation
Working dogs need opportunities to process the environment without constantly being asked to perform.
Useful decompression activities include:
Sniff walks
Scatter feeding
Food searches
Frozen enrichment
Licking
Chewing
Shredding appropriate materials
Simple scent work
Calm exploration
Short problem-solving games
Sniffing is particularly useful because it allows your puppy to investigate the environment without turning every outing into high-speed physical activity.
Calmness Is a Skill
Your puppy does not automatically know how to relax simply because they are tired.
Settling needs to be practiced just like:
Sit
Down
Recall
Heel
Place
A dog that can sprint for miles is impressive.
A dog that can notice another dog across the street, disengage, return their attention to you, walk home, and calmly take a nap is far more useful in everyday life.
Before diving into specific fixes, make sure you understand your puppy's sensory and emotional limits in our complete guide:
👉 Read: How to Calm an Overstimulated Shepherd Puppy: Diffusing the “Gator” Phase
Home Boundaries & Management
Good training does not begin when you say a command.
It begins with the environment.
Every time your puppy practices:
Counter surfing
Chasing children
Biting clothes
Screaming in the crate
Peeing behind the couch
Charging windows
Stealing objects
…the behavior becomes more familiar.
That is why one of the most important principles in puppy training is:
Stop giving unwanted behavior unlimited opportunities to rehearse.
Gates, pens, crates, leashes, long lines, closed doors, tethering, and supervision are not substitutes for training.
They are what make training possible.
The “Land Shark” Survival Blueprint
Few experiences prepare a first-time working-breed owner for puppy teeth.
German Shepherds, Belgian Malinois, and other herding breeds can seem particularly relentless because movement itself often increases their desire to chase and bite.
Your puppy grabs:
Hands
Sleeves
Pants
Shoes
Ankles
Hair
Leashes
Then you pull away.
From the puppy's perspective, the game just became more exciting.
Why Yelping Often Backfires
Traditional puppy advice frequently recommends making a high-pitched yelp when bitten.
Some puppies respond by backing away.
Others hear:
“SQUEAKY TOY ACTIVATED.”
Excitable working puppies may become even more aroused.
Instead, focus on:
Managing movement
Providing legal biting outlets
Interrupting biting before the puppy reaches maximum arousal
Teaching calm transitions
Increasing appropriate sleep
Redirecting oral behavior
Rewarding interaction that does not involve teeth
Pay attention to timing.
If your puppy becomes increasingly mouthy after being awake for 60–90 minutes, the real problem may not be a lack of training.
Your puppy may be overtired.
Build a Better Outlet
Keep appropriate chew and tug options accessible.
Teach structured toy play.
Use short enrichment activities before predictable witching hours.
And remember:
The goal is not to remove your puppy's desire to bite.
The goal is to teach them what, when, and how biting is appropriate.
👉 Read the full step-by-step tutorial: How to Stop Shepherd Puppy Biting: The “Land Shark” Survival Guide
Conquering Crate Chaos
You place your puppy inside the crate.
The door closes.
Three seconds later:
SCREAMING.
Then barking.
Then scratching.
Then dramatic noises suggesting the puppy has been imprisoned for several decades instead of approximately 47 seconds.
Crate frustration can be particularly intense in socially driven working breeds.
The Mistake: Using the Crate Only When You Leave
If your puppy only enters the crate immediately before:
You leave the house
Everyone goes to bed
Fun ends
The puppy gets separated from you
…the crate becomes an extremely reliable predictor of loss.
Instead, build positive crate associations throughout the day.
The puppy can receive:
Meals
Chews
Frozen food toys
Short naps
Calm downtime
inside the crate while you remain nearby.
Independence Should Be Trained Gradually
A puppy who can tolerate three seconds calmly is not ready for 45 minutes.
Increase difficulty progressively.
You want the crate to predict:
“Nothing exciting is happening right now. I can relax.”
Not:
“PANIC. THE HUMANS ARE DISAPPEARING.”
Management matters here too.
A puppy who is under-exercised may fight sleep.
A puppy who is wildly overstimulated may also fight sleep.
The goal is finding the middle.
👉 Read the full step-by-step tutorial: How to Stop Shepherd Puppy Crate Screaming: Ending “Crate Chaos”
The Fast-Track Housebreaking Routine
Potty training becomes far easier when you stop thinking primarily about accidents and start thinking about transitions.
Puppies frequently need to eliminate after:
Waking
Eating
Drinking heavily
Playing
Training
Chewing
Leaving the crate
Excited greetings
These transitions are your opportunities.
Use Predictability Instead of Guesswork
Take your puppy outside.
Give them an appropriate opportunity to eliminate.
If they potty, reward them and continue the routine.
If they do not potty but you strongly suspect they need to, avoid giving immediate freedom throughout the house.
Use a short period of:
Crate time
Tethered supervision
Pen management
Then try again.
This is the basic logic behind the 10-minute crate loop.
You are preventing the puppy from returning indoors, disappearing behind the couch, and immediately having the accident you were trying to prevent.
Freedom Must Be Earned Gradually
Every successful potty trip increases the puppy's opportunity for controlled freedom.
Every uncertain potty trip should increase your supervision.
Housebreaking becomes dramatically easier when the puppy stops getting unsupervised opportunities to make mistakes.
👉 Read the full step-by-step tutorial: How to Stop Shepherd Puppy Potty Accidents: The Fast-Track Housebreaking Guide
Navigating the Real World
Home behavior is only half of the working-breed equation.
Eventually your puppy needs to function around:
Dogs
People
Cars
Joggers
Bikes
Children
Wildlife
Delivery drivers
Guests
Neighborhood noises
This is where many owners discover that their puppy's excellent kitchen obedience mysteriously disappears outside.
The reason is simple.
The environment became more rewarding than you are.
Your goal is to gradually change that equation.
From Sled Dog to Loose Leash
Working-breed puppies often have somewhere extremely important to go.
They do not know where.
But apparently it is 400 feet ahead of you.
Immediately.
Leash pulling is not simply a strength problem.
It is often a combination of:
Excitement
Environmental curiosity
Barrier frustration
Reinforcement history
Lack of engagement
Too much environmental difficulty
Build a “Focus Bubble”
Instead of demanding a formal heel throughout an entire walk, teach the puppy that staying mentally connected to you pays.
Your focus bubble can include:
Name response
Voluntary check-ins
Hand targets
Direction changes
Food engagement
Short structured walking periods
Permission-based sniff breaks
Think:
Engage → Walk → Release → Sniff → Reconnect
rather than:
Heel perfectly for 30 straight minutes or you failed.
Be Careful With Constant Leash Conflict
A dog that spends the entire walk pulling into pressure while the owner constantly pulls backward can become more frustrated and oppositional.
Better leash skills come from teaching the puppy what behavior makes forward movement happen.
Loose leash?
We move.
Maximum tension?
Forward progress disappears.
Consistency turns the environment itself into part of the reward system.
👉 Read the full step-by-step tutorial: How to Stop Shepherd Leash Pulling: Fixing Lunging and Wild Leash Behavior
Mastering Calm Door Greetings
Your friend walks through the door.
Your Shepherd puppy immediately becomes an airborne missile.
Jump.
Spin.
Jump.
Scratch.
Body slam.
Repeat.
The problem is not that your puppy is too friendly.
The problem is that excitement has become permission to lose control.
The Four-on-the-Floor Rule
The foundation is beautifully simple:
Four paws on the floor make interaction happen.
Jumping makes interaction disappear.
That means the visitor should not reward jumping with:
Petting
Talking
Laughing
Pushing
Eye contact
Wrestling
Even negative attention can reinforce the behavior.
Use an Anchor
Do not wait until your puppy has launched before beginning training.
Use:
A leash
Tether
Place bed
Baby gate
Defined greeting station
to control access while the puppy practices.
Greeting becomes the reward for calm behavior.
This teaches:
“If I control myself, I get what I want.”
That lesson transfers far beyond your front door.
👉 Read the full step-by-step tutorial: How to Stop Shepherd Puppy Jumping: Friendly Greeting Training for Working Breeds
Silencing Alert and Window Barking
Your puppy sees a delivery driver.
BARK.
A dog walks past.
BARK.
A leaf moves suspiciously.
EMERGENCY.
Alert barking makes perfect sense in breeds developed to monitor environments.
The mistake is expecting them simply not to notice.
Instead, teach them what to do after they notice.
The Better Goal: Report and Disengage
Think of your dog as an overly enthusiastic security employee.
You do not necessarily need to fire the employee.
You need a better reporting protocol.
Your puppy notices something.
You acknowledge it.
Then the puppy disengages and returns to you.
That could become:
See → Alert → Check in → Move away → Settle
instead of:
See → Bark → Charge window → Bark more → Patrol → Repeat
Prevent Fence-Line Rehearsal
Every uncontrolled sprint along a fence or explosive window-barking episode can make the behavior more automatic.
Management can include:
Visual barriers
Closing curtains
Moving furniture
Limiting unsupervised yard access
Calling the dog away before full escalation
Reinforcing calm observation
Your goal is not to create a dog who never notices anything.
It is to create a dog that trusts you to decide what deserves further action.
👉 Read the full step-by-step tutorial: How to Stop Shepherd Puppy Alert Barking: Fixing Window and Yard Reactivity
Preventing Serious Behavior Problems
Some puppy behaviors are annoying.
Others deserve immediate attention because repetition can create more serious problems later.
Resource guarding belongs in the second category.
The earlier you recognize it, the better.
Defusing Resource Guarding Early
Resource guarding is the attempt to maintain possession of something valuable.
That resource might be:
Food
A chew
Toy
Stolen object
Bed
Crate
Person
Location
Guarding exists on a spectrum.
Early signs can include:
Eating faster when approached
Lowering the head over an object
Turning the body away
Freezing
Hard staring
Holding an object tightly
Leaving with the item
Growling
More advanced guarding can include:
Snapping
Lunging
Biting
Never Punish the Warning
A growl is information.
Punishing a dog for growling may suppress the warning without changing the uncomfortable emotion underneath it.
That can create a dog who skips the early warning signals later.
Do Not Create Conflict Over Everything
Constantly taking food away to “prove” that you are in charge can teach the exact opposite lesson you want.
Your approach predicts loss.
Instead, teach:
Human approaching = something better may happen.
Trades are extremely valuable.
Give the puppy something worth releasing the original item for.
Practice with safe, low-value objects before attempting difficult situations.
Avoid “Alpha” Solutions
Forcefully rolling, pinning, intimidating, or repeatedly stealing from a guarding puppy can damage trust and escalate defensive behavior.
Guarding severe enough to involve snapping, biting, or unpredictable aggression deserves help from a qualified professional who can evaluate the situation directly.
Safety comes before proving a point.
👉 Read the full step-by-step tutorial: How to Stop Shepherd Resource Guarding: Preventing Possession Aggression
The Daily Working Breed Schedule
The individual training techniques in this guide become far more powerful when they are supported by the right daily routine.
Working-breed puppies often appear as though they need more exercise when what they actually need is more predictable cycles of activity and recovery.
Young puppies may sleep approximately 16–20 hours across a 24-hour period, although individual needs vary with age, development, environment, health, and activity.
Lack of adequate rest can show up as:
Wild biting
Zoomies
Barking
Inability to listen
Frustration
Destructive behavior
Crate resistance
Hyperactivity
Sometimes your puppy does not need another training session.
They need a nap.
Below is an example of a 24-hour calming schedule for working-breed puppies that balances their day with strict biological decompression windows.
07:00 AM – 08:30 AM | Low-Arousal Morning Start
07:00 AM: Calm potty break. Keep your movements slow and your voice quiet.
07:15 AM: Breakfast fed via Olfactory Foraging (Snuffle mat or lawn scatter). Sniffing naturally lowers their heart rate.
07:45 AM: 10 minutes of slow, precision obedience training (e.g., teaching "Stay" or "Place") to ground their brain.
08:30 AM – 11:30 AM | Sensory Blackout Block 1 (Sleep)
Action: Transition the puppy into a completely darkened, covered crate or a quiet room.
Why it matters: High-energy pups easily stay awake on pure adrenaline if they see household movement. They require a total visual blackout to successfully drop into a deep, restorative sleep.
11:30 AM – 01:00 PM | Mid-Day Passive Enrichment
11:30 AM: Quick, boring potty trip.
11:45 AM: Mid-day meal delivered via a Frozen Licking Toy (Kong or Toppl).
12:15 PM: Quiet companionship. Sit with the puppy on a leash in the living room while you work or read. If they try to pace or bite, remain completely still and ignore them.
01:00 PM – 04:00 PM | Sensory Blackout Block 2 (Sleep)
Action: Enforced afternoon nap. This is the critical window that ensures your puppy’s nervous system is fully stable before the evening traffic and household chaos peak.
04:00 PM – 05:30 PM | Brain Workout & Arousal Capping
04:00 PM: Outdoor potty walk.
04:15 PM: 10 minutes of mental puzzle work (e.g., the Towel Burrito Roll or Muffin Tin Puzzle).
04:30 PM: Controlled physical outlet. Play a brief, 5-minute game of tug, but stop the game every 60 seconds to demand a calm "Sit" before resuming. This teaches them how to drop their own adrenaline on command.
05:30 PM – 07:30 PM | The Critical Evening Reset Window
05:30 PM: Dinner fed via a cardboard box destruction game to safely exhaust their chewing instinct.
06:00 PM: THE PRE-EMPTIVE PIVOT: Before the 7:00 PM gator phase can even trigger, hand your puppy a Frozen Lick Mat (Pumpkin & Yogurt blend) inside their pen or crate.
06:30 PM – 07:30 PM: Enforced evening transition nap while the family eats dinner.
07:30 PM – 09:30 PM | Low-Light Wind Down
07:30 PM: Quiet evening potty break.
07:45 PM: Dim the household lights. Provide a long-lasting, calming structural chew (bully stick or beef trachea) on their place mat.
09:15 PM: Final, boring potty trip.
09:30 PM – 07:00 AM | Overnight Recovery Sleep
Keep Training Sessions Short
Working breeds are intelligent.
That does not mean puppies should endure 30-minute obedience drills.
Long sessions frequently produce:
Frustration
Sloppy behavior
Loss of motivation
Biting
Disengagement
Instead, try multiple 2–5 minute sessions throughout the day.
You can accomplish an enormous amount in three focused minutes.
Train:
Name response
Recall
Sit
Down
Place
Leave it
Drop
Hand target
Leash engagement
Settle
Then stop while the puppy still wants more.
👉 Create a custom schedule for your puppy: The Puppy Schedule Generator
Replace Constant Stimulation With Better Enrichment
A mountain of toys scattered across the floor does not automatically provide meaningful enrichment.
Rotate activities.
Useful options include:
Nose
Scatter feeding
Snuffle activities
Hidden food searches
Find-it games
Tracking trails
Mouth
Frozen stuffables
Safe chews
Licking activities
Structured tug
Appropriate shredding activities
Brain
Food puzzles
Simple shaping
Novel object exploration
Pattern games
Short obedience sequences
Handler Engagement
Recall games
Tug with rules
Hand targeting
Hide-and-seek
Movement games
Your puppy should learn that interaction with you is one of the most rewarding activities available.
The Bigger Picture: What You Are Actually Training
It is easy to view every behavior problem separately.
Biting.
Barking.
Pulling.
Jumping.
Guarding.
Crate screaming.
Potty accidents.
Overstimulation.
But many of these behaviors are connected.
They involve some combination of:
arousal + frustration + environment + reinforcement + missing skills.
That is why Shepherd SOS focuses on more than simply stopping individual behaviors.
You are developing the underlying abilities your puppy will need for adulthood.
You Are Teaching Emotional Regulation
Your puppy learns:
“I can feel excited without exploding.”
You Are Teaching Frustration Tolerance
Your puppy learns:
“Not getting immediate access does not mean I need to scream, bite, pull, or bark.”
You Are Teaching Environmental Neutrality
Your puppy learns:
“I can notice something without needing to interact with it.”
You Are Teaching Recovery
Your puppy learns:
“After something exciting happens, I can come back down.”
You Are Teaching Handler Engagement
Your puppy learns:
“When I am uncertain, frustrated, or excited, checking in with my person pays.”
These skills are the foundation beneath reliable obedience.
What Working-Breed Socialization Should Really Look Like
Socialization is frequently misunderstood as:
“My puppy should meet as many people and dogs as possible.”
That approach can create the opposite of what you want.
A puppy who learns that every person and every dog is available for interaction may eventually become frustrated when access is denied.
Better socialization teaches:
Exposure without compulsory interaction.
Your puppy can see:
Children
Dogs
Shopping carts
Wheelchairs
Umbrellas
Traffic
Delivery trucks
Construction equipment
Bicycles
Joggers
without needing to greet them.
Sometimes the correct response to seeing another dog is simply:
Nothing.
That neutrality becomes incredibly valuable later.
The Working-Breed Training Rule Most Owners Miss
Do not only practice obedience when your puppy is already losing control.
If “place” only happens when visitors arrive, the exercise becomes associated with maximum difficulty.
If leash engagement only happens when another dog appears, you are trying to build the skill while simultaneously testing it.
If the crate is only used when you leave, you are asking the puppy to learn relaxation during separation.
Build skills first under easy conditions.
Then gradually introduce distractions.
Think of training like strength training.
You would not teach someone to squat by putting 400 pounds on the bar on day one.
Behavior works the same way.
Your Working Breed Puppy Troubleshooting Map
When your puppy suddenly becomes difficult, walk through these questions before assuming they are being stubborn.
Has my puppy slept enough?
Overtired puppies frequently look hyperactive.
Has my puppy recently eaten or had water?
They may need to potty.
Has the environment become too stimulating?
Reduce difficulty.
Has my puppy been awake too long?
Try a calm transition into rest.
Am I asking for a skill the puppy actually understands?
Training and testing are different.
Is the behavior being accidentally rewarded?
Look carefully at what happens immediately afterward.
Has my puppy practiced this unwanted behavior repeatedly?
Management may need improvement.
Does my puppy need more exercise—or better decompression?
Those are not the same thing.
Is the behavior suddenly unusual or dramatically worse?
Consider whether discomfort, illness, pain, or another physical issue may be contributing and contact your veterinarian when appropriate.
The Eight Skills Every Working-Breed Puppy Needs
If you strip puppy training down to its essentials, focus on these:
Respond to their name
Come when called
Relax in confinement
Settle around household activity
Walk without constant leash tension
Release objects voluntarily
Disengage from distractions
Recover after excitement
A puppy with those foundations becomes dramatically easier to teach.
Everything else can be layered on top.
Your Next Step
The puppy biting will end.
The potty schedule will eventually become automatic.
The crate will stop feeling like a nightly battle.
The leash will become lighter.
The jumping will become easier to interrupt.
The barking will become more manageable.
But none of it happens because your working-breed puppy suddenly wakes up mature one morning.
It happens because thousands of tiny repetitions gradually teach your dog:
This is how life works.
The work you put into structure, management, engagement, decompression, sleep, and emotional regulation during the first year can pay dividends for the next decade.
Your goal is not perfection.
Your goal is consistency.
And the chaotic puppy currently attacking your shoelaces may eventually become exactly what these dogs are famous for:
A powerful, stable, intelligent companion capable of working with you instead of against you.
Stop Trying to Keep the Entire Routine in Your Head
Working-breed puppy training gets overwhelming quickly.
When should your puppy potty?
When should they nap?
When should you train?
What should you do when they get overstimulated?
How do you keep everyone in the house consistent?
Download the Working Breed Puppy Master Bundle and put the entire system in one place.
The printable bundle includes:
✓ Potty Tracker — identify patterns and prevent accidents before they happen
✓ Crate Schedule — build predictable rest and independence
✓ Calming Schedule — balance training, enrichment, activity, and recovery
✓ Front Door Guest Sign — help visitors follow the same greeting rules you are teachingPrint it. Put it somewhere visible. Follow the system instead of relying on memory.
Need a Plan Built Around Your Puppy?
Generic advice becomes much less useful when several behaviors start overlapping.
Maybe your puppy:
Bites when overstimulated
Pulls toward dogs outside
Screams when crated
Cannot settle at night
Barks through the windows
Jumps on every visitor
At that point, treating every symptom independently can become exhausting.
A Shepherd SOS Consult helps identify what is driving the behavior, what your puppy is currently rehearsing, which foundational skills are missing, and what should be prioritized first.
Instead of trying ten disconnected techniques from ten different videos, you get a plan built around:
Your puppy
Your household
Your schedule
Your environment
Your biggest behavioral problems